Red-skinned potatoes roasted in olive oil with rosemary or other herbs are always lovely. But sometimes, especially around the holidays, we like our spuds old-fashioned and crusty. The trick to these potatoes is to rough them up first, and then handle them with kid gloves. If you have duck or goose fat on hand, or flavorful pork fat or beef drippings, you can use those in place of oil and butter.

Crunchy roast potatoes

2 lbs. floury potatoes, such as russets, peeled and cut into evenly-sized pi...
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